sAhaRa and bACk!

One month later…

As I left my apartment building this morning shuffling through my Arabic flashcards in some last minute, midterm cramming, I hardly noticed our doorman on the floor next to his desk in amidst his early morning prayers. It was another hot day with temperatures in the mid-90’s, yet my long sleeve-shirt and pants didn’t seem near as unbearable as they did when I first arrived. I walked quickly through my Cairo neighborhood, careful to avoid speeding Mercedes weaving thru vegetable carts pulled by donkeys. I barely heard the young boys shouting, “A’ESH”, as they rode their bikes around selling government stipend Egyptian bread for a mere few cents. Unlike when I first arrived, cucumbers and tomatoes did not seem to be a strange breakfast, and I have almost perfected how to make Nescafe somewhat drink-able. Later in the day, I took a taxi to a coffee shop with free Internet using my, oh so elementary Arabic, and I hardly flinched when the call to prayer blared throughout the city five different times throughout the day. Needless to say, I am slowly learning what it means to be Egyptian in the most basic, superficial sense of the word.

That is certainly not all that I have been learning though. I am also beginning to discover the harder lessons that Egypt had in store for me. Lessons like…what it means to be a female in a society that is not afraid to blatantly make aware that woman are second class. Or what it means to be an American in the 21st century and the responsibility that goes along with that. Or how about when you realize just how ignorant you are about the world and the embarrassment that then follows for not only yourself, but also your country with regards to this ignorance. Or how to even begin to grapple with the “Christian God” while amidst devote Muslims of a completely different ideology. ...These are just some of the multitude of questions that I was not entirely expecting and am only now beginning to comprehend how to even ask them. With questions like these, learning enough Arabic to say good morning and order my coffee all of the sudden does not seem too difficult…

My time here has been divided between cultural experiences, in which I learn solely through being here, and also the ideological revelations, which are revealed through living in a place that holds the values of society in a completely different light than anything I have experienced. Put another way... There are moments when I am only learning the cultural standards and norms through simply being in Egypt. Then there are other times when I am discovering the deep-seeded beliefs and ideologies of the Middle East. And THEN there are times of insight and new understanding when I can put the two together and gain, “personal revelations” shall we call it, into this extremely complex area of the world. While it was my intention to gain understanding while I was here, I am becoming more and more convinced that I will instead leave with only more questions. And yet, I am ok with this. I am at peace because I have come to the conclusion that I will finally be asking the “right” questions. So much of what it means to be a member of my generation involves questioning EVERYTHING. I have decided that I am over that. I am finally alright with letting some things just be as they are, allowing more time and energy going towards the questions that matter…. Little did I know nor expect when I came to this place, but Egypt is teaching me far more about myself and how alike human beings all are.

Unlike some students within my class who have the uncanny ability to remain in the philosophical, question/answer-seeking mode all the time, I, as anyone who knows me can attest to, can not do this. Fortunately, I can “leave” it be for a while and have discovered that Cairo is a really fantastic city to explore and offers amply opportunities of immense FUN. I am going to legitimately challenge Cairo against NYC as the city that “never sleeps”. Much in Cairo does not even open until night time, and then remains open all night. Tonight as I walked back to my apartment, I could not help but notice how many children were out playing in the streets well past 11PM…and yes, it is a school night. Other surprising facts I am discovering… Despite contrary belief, it is extremely safe! (This is partly due to the life in prison sentence that stealing rewards you or the death penalty sentence that drug dealing offers.) Alcohol is near impossible to find partly because it is against Islamic law to consume but also because it is simply not part of the culture. I went to a professional football (soccer) match and chuckled when the man who would be screaming “COLD BEER” was in fact selling none other than mango juice-boxes. Grown men, furiously crushing an empty juice box container when the other team scored… one of those times when you just smile to yourself and shake your head. All this to say, that for many different reasons mentioned and not, Cairo is safe. The general rule as far as food goes it that is you first cover it in sugar, then fry it, it can be considered Egyptian. Our school cook is absolutely fantastic though in her preparation of Middle Eastern cuisine and everyday I find myself declaring that, yes! THIS meal is in fact my favorite! I know what you all are thinking and YES I will be bringing home a cook book, which I will be happy to share…. Overall, I could not feel more welcomed by Egyptians and am at overtimes overwhelmed by their generosity.

And now for this weeks adventures…. (every week needs some adventure!) We headed to the desert for 4 days. We traveled by bus through the Sahara with our final destination being Siwa. It is a ‘desert oasis’ offering hot springs, cold springs, sand-boarding, remains dating back as far as 500 B.C., even the opportunity to sleep out in the middle of the desert for a night… better believe I did and saw it all! Alexander the Great is said to have made special trips to this destination for its vast beauty. I can understand why. It was certainly a much needed break from Cairo and Alexandria (where we traveled last weekend) and a chance to relax a bit and catch our breathe. What an experience!

After the desert excursion, I will have the privilege of living with an Egyptian Muslim family for a week and TRULY being engrossed in the culture in every way possible. In fact, as soon as I post this blog, I am headed to my flat to pack up just the necessities as then I'm off to my "house". I will update my blog after this experience as I am sure I will walk away with many, many exciting, wonderfully enriching stories...

They (and I am not really sure who “they” pertain to) but they say that it takes about two weeks for the initial phase of culture shock to wear off….that being the "honeymoon" stage. One then enters a phase two: confusion results as they begin to compare t heir own culture to the new one and are not sure how to cope with the differences that seem less than favorable in the new culture....interesting.

I am now two weeks into my first experience of Middle Eastern culture and I can honestly say that for whatever reason of which I am not sure, my culture shock “phase 1” and “phase 2” has been reversed. Of course the new sights and sounds of a Cairo were exciting upon first experiencing them, but I found myself standing back; watching, listening, observing, certainly not participating and doing it all as a skeptic. I was critical of this place and Middle Eastern people. Could it be that I fell victim to popular American propaganda and ideas towards this region that our media apparently so successfully ingrained in my mind? Possible…. Interesting enough two weeks ago, I was fully aware that I was coming in with a possible unfair pre-judgment yet I still felt certain that all these preconceived notions would be confirmed. How wrong I could have been. As I just now begin to put aside my “comparison” mentality and my preconceived ideas, I find myself being in awe of Cairo, Egypt and even the Middle East. While utterly complex and mind baffling, stepping back and seeing the Middle East for its history and incredible place in the world systems, I am taking this experience on humility.
Within the short amount of time of two weeks, my “breaking news” impression of this region has been disregarded and I am now opening my eyes to the beauty, and I do mean BEAUTY, of this culture. Beauty in the rich, incredibly enthralling history of the Middle East, particularly Egypt. Beauty in the Islamic inspired architecture and literature. Beauty in the Islamic faith and the devotion of Muslims, especially during this holy month of Ramadan. Beauty in the hospitality and kindness of the people. When I can begin to appreciate the beauty in another culture, my mind can only be opened and expanded beyond what I thought imaginable.
My “awakening” has fittingly coincided with the beginning of our classes and our travels. Week One of classes has just ended and already my mind can not seem to keep up with the information presented to me. Honestly, I would struggle learning Arabic alone over the next 3 months, but that seems to be only the beginning… Our Islam class toured three mosques, all very different but equally breath-taking and overwhelmingly full of different histories. Our professor gave a lecture on the 5 Pillars of the Islam sitting in the midst of the Sultan Hasan Mosque; a mosque built in the early 14th century. These pieces of architecture not only reveal so much about the time periods in which they were built, but also about the intricate details, many of which were for religious reasons, that Muslims followed in creating these masterpieces. We have been privileged with other speakers as well lecturing on topics such as human rights in Egypt and another specifically with regards to woman’s rights. Incredibly fascinating! Throughout the semester, including the time we travel in different countries, we will be fortunate enough to have over 40 speakers from all sectors of society come and share their ideas with us.
Too much class and not enough fun you might be thinking?...Do not worry! This weekend we are headed to Mt. Sinai to climb the famed Old Testament wonder. I hear you can see Saudi Arabia from the top…stay tuned. I also intend to search for the burning bush while I am there, and snorkel in the Red Sea, seeing as we will be staying in the resort town of Dahab for a few days. (I am kidding about the first, quite serious about the latter.) I have heard rumors that Dahab’s snorkeling and scuba diving is comparable to parts of the Great Barrier Reef… I have never been to either, so I am going to believe it is true.
This upcoming week will be hearing speakers from the US Embassy which I am sure will be a fantastic opportunity to ask so many questions which have been swirling about my head since I have been here with regards to the US foreign policy in Egypt.
While the Internet connection is certainly less than favorable, I will put forth my best effort to update this blog a little more often. Ma’Salaama

Arrived.

NOTE: this email was written a few days ago but is just being posted now due to the time it took me to figure out how to switch my computer from Arabic to English. I am now good to "blog" away...

Cairo, Egypt… After a mere 48+ hours in Egypt I have already experienced so much; attending Friday Noon Mosque, eating baba, tahini, and shawarma, riding a gondola-type boat down the Nile, experiencing the famed Khan al Khalili market and smoking the “sheesha” (hookah) which appears to be a favorite pass time around here, seeing the Pyramids and the Citadel (which was built by Muhammad Ali), discovering a coffee shop with lattes and free wireless, buying a ‘he gab’ (veil) in the Giza Market, learning well over 25 words/phrases in Arabic…which I have been using regularly, and doing all these activities while getting to know my 29 other classmates whom I will be sharing this great adventure with. Needless to say, it has been a whirlwind introduction to Cairo and the Middle East. I have been thrust full throttle into a Muslim country where the customs and the culture are something one can simply not prepare for….it must lived first hand.

To be quite honest, I do not know where to begin…my head is spinning. The best I can offer is insight on the most thought provoking experience thus far; an outing to the mosque…

One of the most profound and culturally challenging experiences so far has been attending mosque. I am no where near finished processing the spiritual side of this practice as the social circumstances were certainly enough to think about for one day. Let me explain… I, as a female, had to be fully covered (only my hands and face were permitted to show), was required to sit in a small, very cramped room with over 200 other Muslim women, and had to watch the speaker (who was speaking live to a group of men) on a television screen. To be blunt, I have never in my life felt as “second class”. Granted, I was participating in these Muslim women's religion and I was not there to make a judgment but am rather a mere outsider looking in trying desperately to understand. Needless to say, try as I might, I could not help but raise an eyebrow, or two. When I had an oppertunity to befriend them, they offered rationales for their rituals. (Don’t we all offer apologies for things in our culture that just don’t seem right?) “Of course we cover our entire bodies, we do not want men to suffer from lust” or “Of course we do not attend Mosque when we are menstruating, we are too dirty and sinful”… How I bit my tongue.

But today was not a day to flesh out what Muslims consider holy and sacred, but rather a day to be fully immersed, literally head to toe, in their spiritual discipline. This mindset allowed me to participate fully, and gain immensely from their practices.

Another fascinating aspect of Islam, that I previously suspected but today confirmed to be true, was the role of submission within the context of this religion. Of course there is the aspect I previously touched upon with regards to the role of women in the religion, but it was something else, that when experienced for the first time, sent an unexpected wave of spiritual emotion through me...the physical motion accompanying prayers that set Islam apart from so many other religions. When you place your forehead on the ground in front of you, and hundreds of others around you are doing the same, the intense sensation of complete submission before God is overwhelming. I have never prayed in this position before alone let alone with hundreds of others around me. You are literally bowing before God, over and over and over. For me, the physical movement added a new, extremely powerful and submissive element to praying. Being the good sociology student I try to be, this religious “experience” did not last long and I could not help but begin to piece together everything happening around me, from the gender division to the physical acts of prayer, to the role of woman in society along with the theories and the studies suggesting why Islam is the fastest growing religion today… My goodness the revelations I began to have! I could go on but I am sure you see where I am going with this… Clearly, I still have so much more to process and I am certain it will take many conversations and first hand experiences to dig ever deeper into this extremely complex discussion I have begun. These are just some “preliminary” thoughts on my own, individual experience today. (My Islam class will be taught by a Muslim woman who is also a professor at the American University of Cairo. Her insight will be invaluable to me.)

I could go on and on about how you will never experience hummus or tahini unless you have tried it here, or I could tell you about how purely intriguing and fascinating Arabic is to study, or even about the fresh fruit markets and DELICIOUS juices I have tried…I would never want to bore you with the silly details of my days though!… For now, know that I am learning more than I imagined possible, I am stretching myself beyond what is comfortable, and thinking further outside the box than some would dare to venture. And for today, that is enough…


“Some of life’s greatest lessons cannot be pried from books- they must be experienced in your bones.” ~Kobi Yamada

I want to get my hands dirty...

Over the past few months I have been diving head first into the impossible task of beginning to grasp the complexity of the conflicts within the region of the Middle East. It has been a daunting task in which one new piece of information generally only results in more questions and often, even more confusion. While sitting at a computer or reading a text has provided the words by which I can now dialogue, I feel limited, held back. Writings are biased and I often think I am getting "jipped" on information from both sides of the story. In the Middle East it seems as though it's one religion against another, ethnicity's at war, and a clash of cultures resulting in the possibility that a man can be your neighbor one day and the next, your bitter enemy. My head is left spinning and I have given up the notion that there are any simple answers. It is at this point that I am beginning to realize what an opportunity I have been offered to go to this area and learn first hand from the people who's lives are daily effected by the immense conflicts which plague the Middle East. Until that day comes when I can board the plane, I will continue to read with an open-mind, any and everything I come across which can provide another vantage point, another set of ideas, or another notion of what exactly is going on. I have provided links to websites I have found helpful in my ongoing quest to understand and embrace this culture.

Too early to start blogging and YET...

One of my professors thought it would be a rather neat idea for me to blog while I was studying abroad next semester to keep not only him up to date on my travels, but also anyone else who might be interested... (ie mom and dad)  So I went with his advice and here I am....

(CAUTION: I'm a first time blogger  :-/  Show some grace.)

YES...I know what you are thinking.  I realize that today is May something-or-other and that I am way over eager in starting a blog that I hope to use while I am studying abroad...in SEPTEMBER.  But here I am none-the-less.  To be honest, I received the itinerary for my four month excursion today, and for the first time, I got truly excited for my little adventure to the land of the great pyramids, Pharaohs, possibly some camels?! and maybe a flying carpet or two.  My excitement is certainly the reason for my 3 month premature blog.... anyways, hopefully I'll remember and will be back here "blogging" away come September.  Until then, I have been given some assignments from my program to keep me occupied until I can board the plane.  Nothing major, just some readings in the textbooks we will use, freshening up on the politics of the ME...who's talking to who these days and such...oh, and learning the Arabic alphabet along with proper pronunciation of the letters.  (are they even called 'letters' in Arabic?)...puh, no biggie right?  so those are my plans for the next few months... Honestly, I really could not be more thrilled. (seriously, Im not kidding.)

See ya in Cairo.